The men are not immune from the critiquing eyes of spectators and fellow reenactors alike. There are a few basics that you should follow as well when coming out and participating at an Civil War reenactment event.
By the end of your first year with us, you should have in your wardrobe an appropriate pair of wool or jean cloth pants. If going with the Goodwill pants, please remove all belt loops and add buttons for suspenders, and remember to purchase them at least two sizes bigger then what you normally would wear. Belts were not worn, but braces were. Pants should have all leg creases pressed out and no pleats Jean cloth or railroad pants are appropriate and can be purchased from any number of sutlers, including Fall Creek Sutlery, Castle Keep, Gentlemen’s Emporium, and other such mercantile.
Shirts should be cotton and should have appropriate looking buttons. Wood was often used by the working class, but so were glass, pearl, and metal. If your buttons look like plastic to you, they will to others as well. For the 1860's civilian gentleman, please find some sort of neck tie, such as a cravat, bow tie (not a modern one as we think of) or string tie (simple black silk tie that was about 1" wide and tied at the neck in a bow). A waist coat (vest) is imperative to have, even the working class did not go without it. It was inappropriate to show your braces (suspenders) to a woman, even your wife. Braces were considered underware, and should not be seen. A good pair of suspenders should be included in your wardrobe instead of any modern belts. A hat was always worn out in public, whether it be a top hat or derby, your head should be covered as well.
To further your look, a frock coat or sack coat is a good thing to have in your wardrobe. Made of wool it can be great for protecting yourself from the elements. Black was the most formal of colors, but tan, brown and navy are also very acceptable. Plaids, paisleys, and small geometrics were very popular for waist coats, pants and coats. Please make sure that they are all made of natural materials Cotton, wool and silk should be used.
Accessories for the gentleman were just as important. A dark pair of cloves for day wear and white for night was usually the rule of thumb. These can be cotton or kid leather. Most men of the higher and middle classes also carried with them a walking stick. These should not be the type that have the sword within the handle as these can be dangerous. An appropriate timepiece is also an essential. It was worn either fastened to the pants or waist coat, or carried in a small pocket found on the inside of the waist coat. A simple thing as a period billfold should be included in your accessory list. It was not appropriate to have lumps and bumps in the back of your pants, so the wallet should be kept in the breast pocket of the coat or in your front pocket. They were usually small and tied with leather. A time period style billfold can be purchased from Dick Rohan"s mercantile.
Shoes are one of the most seen items of a men’s ensemble. The cost can be high for a fine quality pair of boots or brogans, so if you are going with a modern version, please make sure they resemble period correct footwear. No big chunky soles, construction boots, tennis shoes, or cowboy boots. An inexpensive pair of brogans can be purchased from Crescent City Sutlery for about $65. These are Mexican made, but are very reasonably priced and easy to get at the Boscobel, WI Civil War reenactment Muskets & Memories. Black square toed boots are also very appropriate as well as black dress shoes without the wing tip effect. Yes, believe it or not people notice these things. They also notice socks. White tube socks should be avoided. Wool socks in a natural color were worn most, but black dress socks will work as well. Please try to avoid the athletic socks, again unless it is for medical purposes.
Shirts were worn buttoned up to the neck and buttoned at the wrists. Laborers were usually the ones that rolled their sleeves, but it was more common to find them down. It was to protect the skin from the elements. Cream or white cotton or muslin is great, but remember they used plaids, checks and paisleys as well. Colors were matched with patterns and patterns were put together with other prints as well. Color abounded. So keep that in mind. That it was not unheard of to see a paisley shirt teamed up with a plaid vest. Breast pockets were seen but mostly on the left side, over the heart. When using shirts from Goodwill, it is recommended that you remove any tags from the outside that would show a name brand, remove the little loop off the back off the shirt, about midway down the back, and also the collar should be removed and sewn back up to form a short rounded neck line then the modern day collar. Please ask how to modify these shirts if you have any questions on the technique.
Most of our Civil War military men know what is expected of them when in those camps, and we will not impede on those standards. The military usually holds their men to high standards, and thus they are correct in their appearance.